THE ORIGINS AND DIFFERENT TYPES OF SILK
A Chinese legend says that, more than 4,000 years ago, Empress Leizu was sitting under a Mulberry tree when a moth cocoon fell from a branch and landed in her steaming cup of tea. She watched the cocoon unravel into the hot liquid, revealing a shimmering, delicate thread. When she pulled it out of her teacup, she realised how strong yet soft it was. If she had multiple threads like this one, she could create the most luxurious fabric to have ever existed: sī (silk).
Soon enough, Empress Leizu had her own Mulberry grove in the Imperial Palace gardens. She domesticated the fuzzy, creamy-white moths that produced such cocoons and observed their life cycle. In their larval stage, they feed exclusively on mulberry tree leaves. When they fully grow, they spin a protective single-strand cocoon around themselves that can measure up to 900 meters long when unrolled.
Once the lifecycle was established, the Empress studied and established sericulture, the science of unwinding and processing silk threads. She invented the silk reel and loom and taught the art of producing silk fabrics to the people of China.
This exact story may be partly mythical. The origins of silk, however, are rooted in ancient Chinese craftsmanship…
Once other cultures witnessed this ethereal-looking fabric brought by traders from the Far East, the demand was relentless. China guarded the secret of sericulture for millennia, opening a vast network of trade routes known as the “Silk Road.”
The monopoly on the production and export of silk products broke after the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I ordered a group of monks to smuggle silkworms out of China. Since then, sericulture has evolved, with different silk fibre sources and weaves being established.
Silk Fibre Sources
The most common type of silk fibre is the Mulberry kind, the one produced by the cocoons of the domesticated silkworms growing on Mulberry trees. Tussar or “wild” silk is produced by undomesticated silkworms living in South Asian forests. It is more textured and has a natural copper colour due to the worms’ diet. Eri or “peace” silk is produced by the discarded cocoons of the Samia cynthia ricini silkworm, which are less lustrous. Contrary to the Mulberry silkworms, this type does not emerge through the cocoon by breaking the continuous silk thread and the cocoons are collected empty, with the method being marketed as “cruelty-free.” Muga silk is a rare and durable wild silk fibre that is exclusive to the Assam region of India.
(01) Mulberry silk
(02) Tussar silk
(03) Peace silk
(04) Muga silk
Types of Silk Weaves
Once the silk fibres are extracted, they can be spun and woven into different styles. Charmeuse, or simply “satin,” is the most common type. Contrary to what many people believe, satin is a weave, not a fabric. Silk satin is lustrous, fluid, and ethereal. Chiffon is a lightweight and sheer fabric made with highly twisted fibres, while Georgette is slightly heavier. Dupioni is mid-weight and highly textured as it features irregular bumps called slubs.
Organza is similar to chiffon but has a stiffer texture. Habutai, or China silk, is a smooth, lightweight silk weave, usually used for lining tailored suits. Lastly, crinkle silk is a lightweight and soft fabric with a permanent fine crinkle texture similar to crumpled paper. Silk chiffon, silk crepe de chine, and silk taffeta are all subcategories of this weave.
(01) Silk satin
(02) Silk Chiffon
(03) Silk Georgette
(04) Silk Dupioni
(05) Silk Organza
(06) China silk
(07) Crinkle silk
Silk Ribbons
After experimenting with various types of silk weaves, Manuela Menzi Studio has created a collection of ribbons with different textures and colours. Naturally dyed with plant colours, the silk ribbons can be used to secure neatly wrapped gifts, to be tied around your hair, or to decorate your home.
Now that you know the story behind every strand, feel the difference for yourself.
